Sunday 17 November 2013

Alternatives to the One Drum Donkey Boiler

Several alternative schemes have been devised, addressing one or other deficiency of the one drum boiler. Perhaps, the most common is the upright boiler with one or more flues through the middle:






Another scheme is the rocket stove with heat exchanger. The heat exchanger may be constructed from flat plates or from a coiled tube:



All of these, although claiming greater efficiency share several disadvantages:
  • The required materials are more expensive and are difficult to source
  • Greater skill levels required for construction and maintenance 
  • Quickly clog with lime around the flue pipes - must be dismantled to remove the lime
  • Require a welder to fabricate and maintain
  • Require more frequent feeding
  • Many need to be under a roof
These problems arise from a single common source - use of conduction between the rising flue gases and water to effect heat exchange. For this to work, large areas of conductive surface are required and the annulus between the conducting surfaces is consequently reduced.

The one drum donkey boiler relies primarily upon radiative heat transfer from a bed of hot coals to the cooler surface of the drum, with a little assistance from conductive transfer from the hot flue gases. A much smaller surface area is necessary for heat transfer due to the large difference in temperature. Good reason to make improvements upon the one drum boiler rather than going for something far more complex.

5 comments:

  1. How does one stop the hot water heating up the water in the inlet, thereby making all the cold water taps hot as well?

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  2. Use a stop cock on the cold water inlet -- this acts as a one way valve to prevent hot water entering the cold water feed (especially when the boiler 'bumps' when overheated.) The stop cock is also useful when changing out a leaky drum.

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  3. I have a steel cylinder instead of a drum which is fed from a head of about 3 metres. I want to know if I need to put in a non return valve on the in let side or a pressure control valve together with a pressure release valve on the outlet side. I have had the hot water blowing back down the cold water inlet pipe and blowing the pipe.

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  4. Any Rhodesian Boiler should be equipped with a standpipe. This should be placed as close as possible to the hot water outlet of the drum, and should extend about one foot (30cm) higher than the water level in the header tank. This acts as a pressure release valve when the boiler overheats, protecting the drum and preventing water pushing back into the cold water inlet.

    Boiling water often spurts out the top of the standpipe. I generally add a short elbow at the top to direct the stream toward the boiler which helps damp the temperature of the boiler.

    In addition, I usually add a stop cock on the cold water inlet. This acts as a one way valve and is useful whenever the boiler needs maintenance.

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  5. about 15 years ago, I bought a portable water heater in the form of Rhodesian boiler that was heated with a cup fueled by kerosene. The water was feed via a normal garden tap. Would love to find that guy who made them.

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